Walk into any salon in Delhi or any corner of India, and you’ll be offered a dizzying array of hair treatments promising smooth, shiny, manageable hair. Keratin, Botox, Nanoplastia, Olaplex, smoothing, rebonding, the options seem endless, and so do the price tags. But which treatments actually help your hair, and which are damaging your strands while emptying your wallet?
As a dermatologist and trichologist who treats hair damage daily, I’ve seen the aftermath of too many salon treatments gone wrong. Some treatments offer genuine benefits, while others cause severe damage that takes months or years to repair. The difference often lies in understanding what each treatment actually does to your hair’s structure.
Let me give you honest, evidence-based ratings of the most popular salon hair treatments, explain what they actually do, and help you decide which (if any) are worth your money and your hair’s health.
Understanding Hair Structure: Why This Matters
Before rating treatments, you need to understand basic hair biology. Your hair consists of three layers:
Cuticle (outer layer): Protective scales that lie flat on healthy hair, reflecting light for shine Cortex (middle layer): Contains protein bonds (especially disulfide bonds) that determine hair strength and structure Medulla (inner core): Present in thick hair, provides structural support
The bonds that matter: Disulfide bonds in the cortex are particularly important. These strong chemical bonds determine hair’s shape, strength, and texture. Most salon treatments work by either breaking or repairing these bonds.
Why this is crucial: Treatments that repeatedly break bonds cause cumulative damage that’s difficult or impossible to reverse. Understanding this helps you make informed decisions about which treatments are worth the risk.
Treatment #1: Keratin Treatment – Rating 2/10
The marketing promise: Smooth, frizz-free, manageable hair for 3-6 months by “infusing keratin” into your strands.
The Reality: Chemical and Heat Damage
What actually happens: “Keratin treatments straighten your hair by breaking the bonds using a lot of chemicals and heat, which can cause hair fall and a lot of dryness.”
The process:
- Strong chemical solution (often containing formaldehyde or similar compounds) applied to hair
- Chemicals break disulfide bonds in the cortex
- Hair is blow-dried and flat-ironed at high temperatures (200-230°C)
- Heat seals the chemicals and “sets” the straightened structure
The damage mechanism:
- Breaking natural bonds weakens hair structure permanently
- Extreme heat (often multiple passes with flat iron) damages protein structure
- Chemical exposure can cause scalp irritation and systemic absorption
- Formaldehyde releases (despite “formaldehyde-free” labels on many products)
Why such a low rating: The damage-to-benefit ratio is extremely unfavorable for most people. You’re essentially damaging your hair’s fundamental structure for temporary smoothness.
Who Might Consider It (With Caution)
“People who have coarse and thick hair can only consider it.”
Very limited candidates:
- Extremely coarse, thick hair that’s unmanageable otherwise
- Understanding that damage is inevitable
- Willingness to invest in intensive repair afterward
- No plans for pregnancy (formaldehyde concerns)
- Healthy scalp with no sensitivity issues
Even then, consider alternatives: Deep conditioning treatments, proper styling techniques, and accepting your natural texture often provide better long-term outcomes.
Cost in Delhi: ₹3,000-15,000 depending on hair length and salon
Better alternatives: Regular deep conditioning, professional hair spas, learning proper styling techniques for your hair type.
For those experiencing hair problems, our comprehensive hair fall treatment guide explores healthier approaches to managing hair concerns.
Treatment #2: Hair Botox – Rating 6/10
The clarification needed: Despite the name, hair Botox contains no botulinum toxin. It’s a deep conditioning treatment with a catchy marketing name.
What It Actually Does
“It is meant to only deeply hydrate and repair your hair without changing the natural texture of your hair.”
The formulation typically includes:
- Hydrolyzed keratin proteins
- Vitamins (especially B5)
- Antioxidants
- Collagen
- Caviar oil or argan oil
- Various conditioning agents
The process:
- Deep conditioning mask applied to clean hair
- Left on for 30-90 minutes
- Minimal or no heat (major difference from keratin)
- Rinsed and styled
- Results last 2-4 months
Why it scores higher: Doesn’t break bonds or use extreme heat, making it significantly less damaging than keratin treatments.
The Realistic Assessment
Benefits:
- Genuine deep conditioning and hydration
- Improved manageability without altering texture
- Temporary reduction in frizz
- Added shine and smoothness
- Safer for regular use
Limitations and concerns:
- “Remember it is a chemical-based treatment. Some hair fall is still possible.”
- Results are temporary (2-4 months maximum)
- Doesn’t actually “repair” damage (nothing can truly repair dead hair)
- Quality varies dramatically between products and salons
- Can cause buildup requiring clarifying
- Some formulations may still contain harsh chemicals
Who Should Consider Hair Botox
“People with dry, frizzy hair or fine hair should consider it.”
Good candidates:
- Dry, damaged hair needing intensive hydration
- Fine hair wanting body and shine without weight
- Frizzy hair seeking temporary smoothing
- Color-treated hair needing conditioning
- Those wanting manageability without permanent alteration
Who should avoid:
- Very oily hair (may become too heavy)
- Those with protein sensitivity
- Anyone allergic to common conditioning ingredients
- People expecting permanent results
Cost in Delhi: ₹2,000-8,000 depending on hair length and product quality
Professional tip: Ask specifically which brand and formulation the salon uses. Quality varies dramatically.
Treatment #3: Nanoplastia – Rating 6/10
“It is similar to Hair Botox.”
Understanding Nanoplastia
Nanoplastia is essentially a newer iteration of hair Botox, using “nanotechnology” (marketing term) to deliver conditioning ingredients.
The concept: Smaller molecules supposedly penetrate deeper into hair shaft for better results.
The reality: The fundamental process and results are very similar to hair Botox.
Why the same rating: Similar benefits and limitations as hair Botox:
- Deep conditioning without bond breaking
- Temporary smoothness and shine
- Doesn’t permanently alter texture
- Chemical-based with potential for some shedding
- Quality varies by product and application
Key considerations:
- Often more expensive than hair Botox despite similar results
- “Nano” terminology is primarily marketing
- May contain slightly different ingredient combinations
- Application process nearly identical to hair Botox
Cost in Delhi: ₹3,000-10,000 (typically higher than hair Botox)
Honest assessment: Unless you’ve tried hair Botox and didn’t get results, there’s little reason to pay extra for Nanoplastia. The “nanotechnology” claims are largely marketing rather than meaningful scientific advancement.
Treatment #4: Olaplex Treatment – Rating 7/10
The standout: This is where we see a genuine technological advancement in hair treatment.
What Makes Olaplex Different
“It repairs your broken disulfide bonds.”
The science: Olaplex contains a patented ingredient (bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate) that actually reconnects broken disulfide bonds in the hair cortex.
Why this matters: Unlike conditioning treatments that coat hair, Olaplex works at a molecular level to restore structural integrity.
The Process and Benefits
Professional Olaplex treatment steps:
- Bond builder applied to hair
- Processed (often with heat)
- Bonding process strengthens internal structure
- Can be combined with coloring/bleaching for protection
- Results improve with repeated treatments
Genuine benefits:
- Actual repair of damaged bond structure
- Particularly effective for chemically processed hair
- Can be used during bleaching/coloring to minimize damage
- Cumulative improvement with repeated use
- Available for home maintenance
Who Benefits Most
“It is good for people who have over-processed, bleached, or colored hair.”
Ideal candidates:
- Bleached or heavily colored hair
- Chemically straightened or permed hair
- Heat-damaged hair from excessive styling
- Hair that feels brittle or breaks easily
- Anyone planning chemical services (protective use)
Realistic expectations:
- Not a miracle cure for severely damaged hair
- Works best as prevention during chemical services
- Requires multiple treatments for significant improvement
- Must be combined with good home care
- Cannot restore hair that’s too damaged (sometimes cutting is only option)
Why Not 10/10?
Limitations preventing perfect score:
- Expensive (₹3,000-8,000 per salon treatment)
- Results subtle on hair without chemical damage
- Requires multiple treatments for significant improvement
- Cannot reverse all types of damage
- Effectiveness varies based on damage severity
- Maintenance products necessary for sustained results
Cost considerations:
- Salon treatment: ₹3,000-8,000
- Home maintenance products: ₹1,500-6,000 for the system
- Best results require both professional and home use
Professional opinion: Olaplex represents genuine innovation and is worth the investment if you have chemically damaged hair or plan chemical services. For virgin, healthy hair, it’s unnecessary.
For those with severe hair damage or thinning, our guide on female hair thinning explores comprehensive treatment approaches.
Treatment #5: Hair Spa – Rating 9/10
The winner: Finally, a treatment that deserves its popularity.
Why Hair Spa Scores So High
“It deeply hydrates your hair and relaxes your scalp.”
What makes it different: Hair spa is fundamentally a conditioning treatment without harsh chemicals, extreme heat, or bond alteration. It focuses on health rather than transformation.
The Comprehensive Process
Typical hair spa includes:
- Scalp massage with therapeutic oils (improves circulation)
- Deep conditioning mask application
- Steam treatment for enhanced penetration
- Gentle massage promoting relaxation and blood flow
- Thorough rinsing and gentle styling
- Takes 60-90 minutes
Multi-level benefits:
- Scalp health improvement through massage and circulation
- Deep conditioning for hair hydration
- Stress reduction through massage therapy
- Blood flow enhancement to hair follicles
- Gentle, non-damaging process
- Suitable for all hair types
The Maintenance Recommendation
“One can get it done once every 2-3 months.”
Frequency guidelines:
- Normal hair: Every 2-3 months
- Dry/damaged hair: Monthly
- Oily hair: Every 3-4 months
- Seasonal adjustment: More frequent in Delhi winters (dry air), less in monsoon
Why not 10/10?:
- Results are temporary (lasting 2-4 weeks)
- Requires regular maintenance
- Quality varies dramatically between salons
- Some salons use heavy products causing buildup
- Cannot address serious hair loss or damage
Cost in Delhi: ₹800-3,000 depending on salon and products used
Maximizing Hair Spa Benefits
What to look for in a quality hair spa:
- Reputable salon with trained staff
- High-quality, sulfate-free products
- Proper scalp massage technique (at least 10-15 minutes)
- Steam treatment included
- Customization based on your hair type
- Clean, hygienic environment
Home maintenance between spas:
- Regular oiling (1-2 times weekly)
- Deep conditioning masks weekly
- Gentle scalp massage during washing
- Proper nutrition supporting hair health
Professional recommendation: Hair spa is one of the few salon treatments I actively recommend. It provides genuine benefits without risk of significant damage, making it an excellent investment for hair health.
For comprehensive hair care strategies, our smart beauty investments guide includes hair spa among worthwhile long-term investments.
Treatment #6: Smoothing and Rebonding – Rating 0/10
The harsh truth: These are among the most damaging treatments commonly offered in salons.
Why the Zero Rating
“It is also a chemical-based and heat-based treatment which will cause you a lot of dryness and a lot of hair fall.”
The destructive process:
- Harsh chemicals (containing formaldehyde or similar compounds) break disulfide bonds
- Hair is physically straightened while bonds are broken
- Extreme heat (flat iron at 200-230°C) repeatedly applied
- New bonds form in straight position
- Results last 3-6 months
- Damage is permanent
The Severe Damage Caused
Immediate effects:
- Visible dryness and brittleness
- Increased breakage and split ends
- Scalp irritation and burning
- Hair fall during and after treatment
- Loss of natural volume and body
Long-term consequences:
- Cumulative damage with each treatment
- Progressive hair thinning
- Permanent texture alteration even when grown out
- Difficulty growing hair past certain length (breaks before growing long)
- Potential scalp sensitivity and inflammation
- Years required for complete recovery (if possible at all)
The Difference from Keratin
Why both score poorly but rebonding/smoothing gets zero:
- Even more aggressive chemicals
- Higher heat application
- Longer processing time
- More dramatic bond restructuring
- Higher risk of severe damage
- More frequent complaints of hair loss
Who This Is NEVER Recommended For
No one should consider this treatment if:
- They value their hair health
- They have fine or thinning hair (will worsen dramatically)
- They have any scalp conditions
- They’re pregnant or breastfeeding
- They have any other option available
The rare exception: Absolutely no exceptions. The damage-to-benefit ratio is never favorable.
Cost in Delhi: ₹2,000-12,000 (money that could be better spent on quality care)
What to do instead:
- Accept and work with your natural texture
- Learn proper styling techniques for your hair type
- Invest in quality products and tools
- Consider hair spa treatments for manageability
- Consult a professional trichologist for severe concerns
Our hair care guide explores healthier approaches to managing various hair types and concerns.
Additional Treatments Worth Mentioning
PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) Therapy – Rating 8/10
What it does: Uses your own blood platelets to stimulate hair follicles and promote growth.
Benefits:
- Natural, using your own cells
- Effective for hair thinning and mild hair loss
- Minimal side effects
- Combines well with other treatments
Limitations:
- Requires multiple sessions (₹6,000-12,000 each)
- Results take 3-6 months to appear
- Not effective for all types of hair loss
- Maintenance sessions needed
Scalp Treatments and Cleanups – Rating 8/10
What they do: Deep cleanse scalp, remove buildup, treat specific scalp conditions.
Benefits:
- Addresses scalp health (crucial for hair growth)
- Treats dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis
- Removes product buildup
- Improves follicle health
Recommended frequency: Monthly for those with scalp concerns, quarterly for maintenance.
For persistent dandruff concerns, professional scalp treatments combined with medical management provide optimal results.
Hair Glossing/Glazing – Rating 7/10
What it does: Semi-permanent color treatment that adds shine and enhances color.
Benefits:
- Adds significant shine
- Enhances natural or colored hair
- Minimal damage (no ammonia)
- Conditions while coloring
Limitations:
- Temporary (4-6 weeks)
- Regular maintenance needed
- Can build up over time
- Not suitable for those avoiding all color
Making Smart Decisions About Salon Treatments
Questions to Ask Before Any Treatment
Before booking:
- What specific chemicals will be used?
- What is the exact process and duration?
- What are potential side effects and risks?
- Can I see before-and-after photos of real clients?
- What is the expected longevity of results?
- What maintenance is required afterward?
- What happens if results aren’t as promised?
- Are there any guarantees or refund policies?
Red flags indicating you should walk away:
- Salon cannot explain the process clearly
- No patch test offered for chemical treatments
- Pressure to book immediately
- Unrealistic promises about results
- Very cheap pricing (indicates inferior products)
- No clear information about chemicals used
- Poor hygiene or unprofessional environment
Cost-Benefit Analysis
Treatments worth the investment:
- Hair spa: ₹800-3,000 every 2-3 months = ₹3,200-12,000 yearly
- Olaplex (if needed): ₹3,000-8,000 per treatment, 2-4 times yearly = ₹6,000-32,000
- Professional scalp treatments: ₹1,500-4,000 quarterly = ₹6,000-16,000 yearly
Total for quality care: ₹15,000-60,000 annually depending on needs
Treatments wasting your money:
- Keratin: ₹3,000-15,000 every 3-6 months + damage repair costs
- Smoothing/Rebonding: ₹2,000-12,000 + extensive damage requiring expensive repair
- Multiple “miracle” treatments with no proven benefit
The math: Investing in gentle, beneficial treatments costs less long-term than repeatedly damaging and repairing your hair.
Alternative Approaches to Common Hair Concerns
For Frizzy, Unmanageable Hair
Instead of chemical straightening, try:
- Regular hair spa treatments
- Proper conditioning routine at home
- Anti-frizz styling products
- Learning appropriate styling techniques
- Accepting and enhancing natural texture
For Damaged, Dry Hair
Instead of heavy salon treatments, try:
- Olaplex treatments if chemically damaged
- Regular deep conditioning at home
- Protein treatments for structural repair
- Trimming damaged ends regularly
- Protective styling to prevent further damage
For Dull, Lifeless Hair
Instead of chemical treatments, try:
- Regular hair spa for shine and health
- Scalp treatments to improve follicle health
- Dietary improvements (protein, vitamins, minerals)
- Proper cleansing to remove buildup
- Quality finishing products for shine
For Hair Fall
Instead of salon treatments, see a specialist:
- Professional medical evaluation essential
- May require blood tests, scalp analysis
- Could need prescription treatments
- Might benefit from PRP therapy
- Requires addressing underlying causes
Our comprehensive guide on hair fall treatment explores medical approaches to hair loss that address root causes rather than just symptoms.
Home Care: The Foundation of Healthy Hair
The Reality Check
No salon treatment can compensate for poor home care. The foundation of healthy hair is proper daily and weekly maintenance.
Essential home care practices:
- Gentle, sulfate-free shampoo appropriate for hair type
- Regular conditioning (every wash)
- Deep conditioning weekly
- Minimal heat styling
- Proper nutrition and hydration
- Gentle handling when wet
- Protection from environmental damage
Investment perspective: ₹3,000-5,000 monthly on quality home care products provides better long-term results than ₹10,000 on damaging salon treatments.
Building Your Home Routine
Weekly maintenance:
- Pre-wash oil treatment (coconut, argan, or castor oil)
- Gentle cleansing with appropriate shampoo
- Conditioning focusing on mid-lengths and ends
- Deep conditioning mask
- Scalp massage (5-10 minutes)
- Minimal heat styling
Monthly additions:
- Clarifying treatment to remove buildup
- Protein treatment if needed
- Trim split ends
- Scalp exfoliation
- Professional hair spa
When to Seek Professional Medical Help
Signs Requiring Dermatologist Consultation
See a hair specialist if experiencing:
- Excessive daily hair fall (>100-150 hairs daily)
- Visible thinning or bald patches
- Scalp inflammation, itching, or pain
- Sudden texture or quality changes
- Hair not growing past certain length
- Severe damage not improving with care
What professionals can offer that salons cannot:
- Medical diagnosis of underlying conditions
- Prescription treatments for hair loss
- Proper scalp condition management
- Hormonal evaluation if needed
- Advanced treatments like PRP or medications
- Comprehensive treatment plans
The Environmental Factor: Delhi Considerations
How Delhi’s Environment Affects Treatment Choices
Pollution impact:
- Increases scalp inflammation and sensitivity
- Accelerates oxidative damage to hair
- Makes chemical treatments more risky
- Requires more frequent cleansing and conditioning
Hard water effects:
- Causes mineral buildup on hair
- Reduces treatment effectiveness
- Makes hair feel rough and dry
- Requires chelating treatments or water filters
Climate considerations:
- Summer heat and humidity affect treatment longevity
- Winter dryness requires more intensive conditioning
- Monsoon humidity impacts smoothing treatments
- Pollution peaks in winter worsening hair health
Our guide on winter skincare for Delhi includes hair care strategies for pollution and environmental stress.
Conclusion: Making Informed Choices
The key takeaway: Most salon treatments promising dramatic transformation come at the cost of significant hair damage. The treatments scoring highest (hair spa, Olaplex) focus on health and conditioning rather than dramatic alteration.
Smart approach to salon treatments:
- Prioritize hair health over appearance changes
- Choose conditioning treatments over chemical restructuring
- Invest regularly in hair spa (9/10 rating) rather than occasional dramatic treatments
- Consider Olaplex (7/10) only if you have chemically damaged hair
- Avoid anything that breaks bonds or uses extreme heat (keratin, smoothing, rebonding)
- Build a strong home care foundation before investing in salon treatments
The honest truth: The salon industry profits from creating insecurity about your natural hair texture while offering damaging “solutions.” The healthiest approach is accepting your natural texture, maintaining excellent care, and using only gentle, beneficial treatments.
Follow us to know more. Stay healthy, stay beautiful.
Your hair is dead protein once damaged, it cannot truly repair itself. Every treatment choice either preserves your hair’s integrity or compromises it further. Choose wisely.
Dr. Shruti Patil is a board-certified dermatologist and trichologist at Dr. Mahajan Skin To Bone Clinic, Pashim Vihar, New Delhi. With extensive experience treating hair damage from salon treatments and environmental factors, she provides evidence-based guidance for maintaining hair health while achieving your aesthetic goals.
Concerned about hair health or considering salon treatments? Schedule a consultation for professional assessment and personalized recommendations that prioritize your hair’s long-term health over temporary cosmetic changes.
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